Circular Knitting Needles: 5 mm [US 8] 16".
Knitting Needles: 5 mm [US 8] straight.
1 Set Double-Pointed Needles: 5 mm [US 8].
Cable needle, stitch markers, yarn needle, sewing thread and needle, 2 buttons 1" diameter, empty whipped topping container or other round piece of plastic for brim.
GAUGE: 18 sts = 4";24 rows = 4" in pattern stitch.
4/4 LPC: Slip next 4 sts to cable needle and hold to front, k4, k4 from cable needle.
It took me six tries to cast on in a way that left a tail that I was comfortable with, I'm not used to judging how much of my tail 96 stitches are going to use.
So I started following the pattern:
With circular needles, cast on 96 sts. PM for beginning of round and join, being careful not to twist sts.
Rnd 1: * K1, p1; repeat from * around.
Repeat Rnd 1 twice more.
Next Rnd: Begin Cable Stitch Pattern. Work until hat measures 7" from beginning.
Cable Pattern Stitch (multiple of 12 sts)
Rds 1-7: * K8, p4; repeat from * around.
Rnd 8: * 4/4 LPC, p4; repeat from * around.
Rnds 9 and10: * K8, p4; repeat from * around.
Repeat Rnds 1 - 10 for stitch pattern.
Shortly before the third cable I decided that it looked like crap and ripped it out. On my first attempt I cabled to the front as the pattern calls for, but this left big messy loose stitches that wouldn't go away. No matter how carefully I knit, it looked like I had no idea how to cable. I also decided that I wanted a more definite ribbing to my hat. When I started the second time I changed the rib from k1 p1 around for 3 rounds to k2 p2 for 5 rounds. I also changed the cable to the back which entirely fixed the messy loose cable problem. I think my cabling problem stems more form the yarn I used than the pattern. I made this hat in Plymoth Galway worsted weight wool. The wool was not easy to work with and was on the thin side of worsted weight, but I figured and wool hat would be both warm and hold up well in the weather. With my two modifications I followed the pattern and knit until I had 7 inches and then did the decrease, I also cabled in row 3 of the decrease because it would have looked odd if I hadn't continued the cable pattern.
Rnd 1 (dec): * [K2 tog] 4 times, [p2tog] 2 times; repeat from * around–48 sts.
Rnds 2 and 3: * K4, p2; repeat from * around.
Rnd 4 (dec): * [K2tog] 2 times, p2 tog; repeat from * around–24 sts.
Rnd 5: * K2, p1; repeat from * around.
Rnd 6: * K2tog, p1: repeat from * around–16 sts.
I bound off and put the hat on my head. I was so excited to finish the hat part, but all that excitement turned to disappointment the moment I got that hat on. I was a full inch too short to cover my ears, which as I want a spring/fall billed hat for Minnesota, ear coverage is crucial. I spent three hours unpicking the bind off and unkintting the entire decrease. I even managed to unknit that cabled row without losing a single stitch. I knit the hat another inch and a quarter and repeated the bind off. This time I didn't have to cable because the cable would have come on the bind off row. So now I have a hat that looks like any other hat:
Short rows....yep, never heard of them before, but the way these instructions are written you better have an idea of what you're doing because there is a lot implied. I called my handy dandy expert knitter mom who told me to watch a video on you tube. I ended up watching this one and used this wrapping method on my brim every time the pattern says slip 1. Before I did the brim I did this knitting exercise several times. I actually kept my first attempt at the brim. You could see a few of my wraps pretty obviously, but overall it was decent if very curly. I blocked the brim overnight:
Now this is where the directions get really fun:
I looked at this and decided to repin it on top of a piece of paper and trace my brim onto that before I took it to the cool whip container. Be sure to actually stretch your knitting when you pin it, you don't want your knitting to sag when you sew it around the brim. This is the tracing I got:
Once again I started the pattern and quickly realized that it was not what I wanted. To make the strap I cast on 8 stitches and k2 p2 k2 p2 on all rows. To decide the strap length I kept holding it up to the hat and knit until it looked like I wanted, which turned out to be 10.5 in. I pined the strap on while wearing the hat and used the tails to sew it on. I couldn't get my tapestry needle through the holes in the buttons I bought so I ended up sewing those on with black thread. I tucked in the last of my tails and it was done.
Today was the perfect weather for this hat, bright sunny and hovering in the 20s all day. I was well satisfied with how warm it kept my ears and stayed in place. The brim worked well when the sun was directly in front of me, but offered practically no protection near sunset when the sun was from my side. Overall I'm quite happy with my hat (a brim is so much better than no brim at all), but would probably attempt the change the shape of the brim to offer more side protection if I make it again.